Electric Industrial Fan Heaters

They are the big and stronger brothers of classic fan heaters: Electric industrial fan heaters! Ideal for heating large industrial premises, whereby the field of application of these fan heaters is very far-reaching. Of course, this also goes beyond commercial and industrial use, as these electric industrial fan heaters are very versatile and provide a great solution to many electric heating requirements. In the following, we will introduce you to these powerful electric heating systems and how they can be used, what equipment to use, and what to look for when buying an electric industrial fan heater.As a rule, when taking about industrial electric heaters, 230 volt / 1 Phase units will generally be supplied with an output of 3 kW maximum and use a maximum of 13 Amps as this is the maximum that a standard 3 pin “household” type socket can satisfy.The higher output fan heaters above 3 kW need to be connected to a 415 Volt – 3 phase supply, as when using a 3 phase electrical supply the current limits are much higher which allows us to get more heating capability from these types of warm air fan heaters.

Industrial fan forced electric heaters

As the name already makes it clear, electric industrial fan heaters are mainly used in the professional or industrial sector. This ranges from heating, drying and ventilation on construction sites, or in workshops and warehouses and commercial buildings. They are also used as temporary or top up heating for sports halls and social clubs as well as larger event type heating that use marquees etc. As you will see from the detail below, there are electric industrial fan heaters for very specific applications, which meet the specific application requirements, such as mobile units, fixed units etc.

Fixed or mobile Industrial electric fan heaters

Whist the smallest electric powered industrial fan heaters will usually be free standing mobile units and easily carried to where ever it is required, the larger heat requirements can often be delivered from electric fan heaters installed on brackets mounted to walls or columns, or even hung from the ceiling or roof structure.

Wall or Ceiling mounted electric industrial fan heaters from Flexiheat UK

When the units are to be wall or ceiling mounted, they are often called electric unit heaters. These tend to have a lighter , but still robust casing , as they are not required to have the level of resistance to knocks and bumps that the mobile units tend to receive, as they are mounted at a wall or ceiling height and are out of the way of this type of potential ware and tear that the mobile units are often subject to.Full details on our range of these electric unit heaters can be found here – 

For 6 kW to 27 kW of heat output – 

https://www.flexiheatuk.com/product/industrial-fan-heaters-electric/

or for the commercial range that goes from 3 kW to 15 kW of heat output

https://www.flexiheatuk.com/product/electric-unit-heater-3kw-to-27kw-output/

Mobile units – 

This mobile unit , our “FHNXG” model is available in 9 Kw , 12 kW or 20 kW Output and is a compact yet powerful electric forced fan heater.

The models with up to 30 kW of output are very mobile, and are either easily lift-able or have a wheel’s that allow you to manoeuvre these electric heaters to your required destination. The models up to 20 kW of heating output can easily be transported in a car boot for example.

Our mobile industrial fan forced electric heaters – 9/18 kW on the left or the 15/30 kW model on the right

Full details on both of the above industrial portable electric heaters electric can be found here – 

https://www.flexiheatuk.com/product/industrial-electric-heaters/ 

When you get to the larger output industrial electric fan heaters, then they can be heavy and large, especially when we are talking about our 42 kW model, which is 130 KG’s in weight. Although this unit benefits from heavy duty braked caster wheels, which allow you to manoeuvre the unit quite easily. This model also comes with forklift slots or pockets as well as lifting eyes, should you wish to lift the unit to a high level.

Industrial Electric Heater-42kW- from Flexiheat UK

Ductable units – When you want heat into another area from your heater 

If you only require to deliver the heat into the area or room where the space heating is required then it is an easy decision: you’re not going to need an electric industrial fan heater that has a duct spigot fitted to the unit. But if you want your industrial fan heater to deliver heat into a separate area, room or enclosed space then your going to need a ductable electric fan heater. Flexiheat can supply various ductable industrial fan heater models, that can be ducted up to 30 metres in length, as we have units that have high air flow pressure produced by the high-quality fans that are fitted to our units

Sizing of your heat requirement / heat loss 

The first stage of narrowing your requirement for an electric industrial fan heater is to establish how much heat you need. There are some general rules of thumb, that will give you a good approximation of the heat requirement for you building. You can use 60 Watts per /m2 of floor area.

But using this general assumption has some potential big draw backs, the first being that this “rule of thumb” generally is based on a 3-metre-high room. Many Industrial unit have much larger heights than this, so for an accurate heat loss calculations you would need to calculate the volume of area being heated, adding any heat generated by hot industrial process or machines and then using the U values of the various materials that are used in the make-up of your room or building, along with the desired internal temperature , and normal maximum external temperature ,you calculate an accurate heat requirement for you application.

We have a handy spread sheet / form that you can fill out, along with description of your insulation levels. That we can send you, just fill this form or spread sheet out and we can calculate your heat requirement for you.So just get in touch with us.

Sockets, Plugs and Leads for Industrial Fan Heaters

Single phase industrial electric fan heaters generally come complete with a length of flex and a fitted plug as standard, and whilst in the case of 110 Volt powered electric heaters they come with a standard 3 pin round plug for fitting onto a transformer. For more information on our 110 volt industrial electric fan heater model, please see the following dedicated web page – 

https://www.flexiheatuk.com/product/110v-heater/

With 3 phase heaters there are a greater variety of plugs and some of the smaller heaters come with a flex and plug and some come without, as in the example of our electric unit heaters, as they are designed to be hard wired as they are designed as fixed electrical heaters, and thus come with a connection block.
Some of the larger mobile heaters come with a “CEE” connection socket inbuilt onto the heater, allowing you to have the connecting flex as long as you require, to suite your site conditions

Industrial electric fan heaters UK

The full range of our electric air heaters / fan heating units is robust and totally reliable; These are built with an indisputable high experience and knowledge. Whilst the fan motors of these heaters production cycles, are certified and subject to the strictest technical and dimensional checks and electrical tests according to the ISO 9001: 2015 certified Corporate Quality System and are in full compliance with the latest European and International standards in force.

Industrial electrical fan heaters UK

If you require any further assistance with our electric industrial fan heaters / industrial fan forced electric heaters or any of our products, please click here to contact us via email or call us direct on 01202 822221

12kW Electric combi boiler – What are your options?

12kw electric combi boiler option – Flexiheat UK

An 12kW electric combi boiler can be the perfect solution to your heating and hot water demands for a small house or flat. An electric combination boiler does away with the need for stored hot water but with this comes some things you need to be aware of to decide if a combination electric boiler is right for your application.

Here Flexiheat UK, we have a couple of options for your 12kw electric combi boiler requirements. We do a range of 12kw electric combi boilers, that can either be run off a 240 Volt / Single Phase electric supply (the most common household electrical supply voltage for the UK and Ireland)

The term “combi” is just an abbreviation for the word “combination” and when used in the context of a 12kw electric combi boiler, this means that the electric boiler will not only do the central heating requirements, but also produce domestic hot water, for your hot water taps within your property or flat. They’re ideal for properties with gas boiler restrictions, such as flueing issues, or no access to the mains gas supply. They are the perfect solution /cost effective alternative for replacing existing gas boiler, electric storage heating or solid fuel wet central heating systems with electric boilers and reduce your carbon footprint.

Ok that’s the good news, but here’s reality

Electric combi boilers under 15 kW on the market don’t work – in the real world!

Why? you just can’t get useful hot water performance out of a single phase 240 volt powered electric combi boiler unit.

Unlike a gas combi boiler, which does an outstanding job of quickly transferring energy from natural gas to heat water and producing an appropriate hot water flow rate, this is not the case with an electric boiler of this size.

When it comes to an electric boiler, you need the power (Amps) to do this, and a single phase 240 Volt supply can’t generate the Amps necessary to accomplish the requisite hot water flow rate even for smaller properties – if you do have 3 Phase then look at this webpage – Electric Combi Boilers for units that start at 15kW and above.

What’s the solution then?

Essentially, we use a standard electric boiler with the minimum sized indirect hot water storage cylinder, which is an mains-unvented hot water type – it is only 80 litres in volume, to make up a “12kw electric combi boiler”.

This results in the lowest water storage level, but enough hot water supply to cope with your properties needs i.e., it not only provides sufficient water volume, but also at the right temperatures as you require 50C to be able to wash the grease of dishes / kitchen utensils. Whilst reducing your energy costs to the minimum for your domestic hot water heating system.

15kW and below electric combi boilers solution from Flexiheat UK

12kW Electric Combination Boiler Efficiency & Benefits

None of our 12kW electric combination boilers options emit gases or direct pollution when operating as they are not using fuels such as natural gas, LPG gas or Oil and therefore there is no risk of leaks or explosions. All of our electric combination boilers are highly efficient at above 99%, and come with a control panel, and are fitted with the latest ErP low energy rated heating pumps and come with a system expansion vessel. Our electric combi boiler benefits and key features are –  

• A fully qualified ErP compliant 12 kW Electric Combination Boiler combined with a
• 80 litres of Domestic Hot Water Storage
• Heating and hot water superior performance
• They can be used with a wet underfloor heating system
• They can be used on a a traditional wet central heating system with radiators
• They can be used in conjunction with solar heating systems
• Come with an energy efficient ErP compliant heating pump
• Fully modulating power / output regulation
• Full controller over your required operating temperatures
• Inbuilt control panel / programmer or can be connected to a wi fi wireless thermostat or traditional room thermostat
• Can be controlled by an “OpenTherm” compatible controller, such as your Hive or Nest type controllers -meaning you can control the “electric combi boiler” from an app on your phone or tablet.
• A frost / freezing protection system – If the temperature of the water inside the 12kw electric combi boiler is under 5°C, the pump and heating elements will operate to bringing the water temperature up to 35 Degrees Centigrade, ensuring that the boiler is protected against freezing and any potential damage.

They can be installed by any competent electric heating company or a plumber in conjunction with a electrician. 

Domestic Hot Water Performance

One of the most important factors in relation to electric combination boilers is their Domestic Hot Water ( sometimes referred to as DHW) performance. With 12 kW of heating power dedicated to heating the domestic water when required, which ensure a great recovery time of the stainless-steel water tank, which is a very compact unit ,should you use all the water in one go – such as filling a bath.

The recovery time of 80 litre tank, (which can be mounted directly underneath the wall hung electric boiler or in a sperate location to suit site requirements ) from 10 Degrees C to 60 Degrees C is only 29 minutes – and only 15 minutes from 35 Degrees C to 60 Degrees C. The temperature of the domestic hot water can be controlled between 35 to 65 degrees centigrade for anti legionella requirements, and comes as standard with a 3kW immersion heater, for use as a back up heater.

Kitchen taps – flow rates of between 4 to 6 litres per minute. These days water efficient taps and showers should have the following flow rates –

Showers – flow rates of approximately 8 litres per minute for a standard shower head.

So with 80 litres of storage of domestic hot water , a standard shower uses 65.1 litres of water blended down to 43 Degrees C and lasts for 8.2 minutes at average flow rate of 8 litres . The 80 litre stainless steel DHW tank will provide 83.3 Litres of water , when stored at 60C and blended down to 43C, which is the highest safe showering/bathing water temperature. Ensuring you have a nice warm shower, at a good water pressure, up to 7 Bar if required.

Electrical Consumption Details  – including fuse & cable requirements :-

These 12kW electric combi boilers can be wired up either with a single phase 240 volt or a Three phase 400 volt electrical supply, 

The following information is relevant when this 12kW electric combination boiler is wired up to a 240 Volt , Single Phase electrical supply –

12kW Electric combi boilers for sale UK & Ireland

The full brochure for this 12kw electric combi boiler and the rest of our range as we also do three phase electric versions that go up to 21 kW of heating output, please download our brochure here – 

Should you require anymore assistance, more information or a price on our 12kW Electric Combi Boiler / 12kW Electric Combination Boilers , please don’t hesitate to contact our sales team on 01202 822221 or click here for our email contact form.

Boiler Pressure keeps dropping or continually low ? 

Why does my boiler pressure keeps dropping ? This is a common question , and following in this guide we’ll take you through the most common boiler problems, what to look for , and actionable things that you can do to fix the dropping boiler pressure. Most of the time these fixes are easy , that can be done by yourself, as you don’t need to be an expert in order to do a little troubleshooting on your own.

By following these simple steps , you should figure out what is causing your low boiler pressure , and why it continually keeps on dropping , in no time at all, before having to call a plumber out. Some of the fixes can be done by you , whilst others you may have to get a plumber or heating engineer out to look at your heating system as you may have a boiler leak causing it to lose pressure.

work through the following table of contents in an orderly manner

Things to check on the boiler

Firstly you need to check your boiler pressure gauge , and see what’s it’s reading. This gauge is most commonly built into the boiler, or underneath it and should look like this or similar –

In the picture above the red marker on the gauge is just an indicator of where the level should be, the thin black marker is the actual pressure of the heating system. A pressurised boiler system or a sealed central heating system needs a certain amount of pressure to work, normally about 0.5 Bar – 1.5 Bar, although some will continue to function with far less pressure. If this pressure reading is lower than the recommend pressure level, this means you heating system water pressure is low and that you have low boiler pressure which needs to be topped up so the level is above the red line on the pressure gauge normally via the filling loop, which will fix the low boiler pressure.

It is usually best to contact a plumber if you have any concerns about your boiler losing pressure or are unsure of how to re-pressurize the system yourself.

But before that is done, you really need to establish why the boiler keeps losing pressure as you may have pressure loss in the pipework i.e. copper pipe via a leak or even a leaking radiator valve, gland nut or heat exchanger etc.

Combi boiler pressure keeps dropping ?

It doesn’t matter whether your boiler is a heating or heat only boiler or a combi boiler, as we are talking about losing water pressure on the central heating system here .If your combi boiler is losing pressure on your domestic hot water side of the boiler ( this is you hot water that is provided to your hot water taps , showers or bath taps ) then this will be a mains water pressure problem, and you would need to consult your water supplier.

First thing to check –

Is there air in the heating system?

This is an easy thing to check yourself. You just might be able to diagnose your problem with just a few checks,

Before you do anything, try bleeding your radiators. But before you set off to do this, a top tip is to have a towel or rag to catch any drips from the radiator air vent, as the water form the heating system can be black in colour and stain anything that if falls onto. To bleed your radiators, use a radiator key. Find the radiator air vent and slowly turn the radiator key counter clockwise until water starts dripping out, this releases the trapped air and lets hot water fill that void or space in the radiator again, ensuring a nice hot radiator. Always bleed the top floor radiators first and make sure you bleed the radiators in sequence. Bleeding the air from the radiators will then cause the pressure to drop lower again, so check it again after bleeding all the radiators and adjust it accordingly.

If bleeding the radiators doesn’t work, then you may have a bigger issue such as an air lock in the heating system or you may even need to have the heating system itself flushed out. I wouldn’t recommend you doing this yourself , unless you feel completely comfortable, and have the tools and equipment to do it properly. So it’s time to call a plumber for most people.

Second thing to check –

Is there a leak in your central heating system?

Look for signs of a water leak such as a damp floor, leaky pipes, a small hole in a radiator somewhere or a stain on your ceiling, any or all of these signs point to you have a leak on your central heating system, which is causing your boiler to lose pressure. Finding a leak may sometimes feel like finding a needle in a haystack, but it’s worth trying to find it yourself, before calling out a plumber, as most heating engineers charge an hourly rate, which can become quite expensive, should be tasked with finding the leak on you central heating system.

Third Thing to check –

Is the boiler pressure relief valve leaking ?

Is the pipe coming off the pressure relief valve on the boiler continually dripping water ? If so at some point the valve has probably operated and there may be some internal debris that is stop it from properly shutting off again. This faulty pressure relief valve may need to be cleaned or replaced completely and is a fairly cheap repair or you may need to replace this faulty pressure relief valve. This job really should be left to a qualified plumber or heating engineer to do.

Fourth thing to check –

Is the Boiler Expansion Vessel Faulty?

All modern sealed system boilers or pressurised boiler systems use an expansion vessel with pressurised air within the unit, either placed within the boiler but can be located externally too , that accommodates any expansion that is created when water is heated up in the heating system. If the expansion vessel is faulty, it normally means that it will not be able to handle the expanding hot water resulting in the pressure in the heating system rising rapidly and this water will be ejected through the pressure relief valve, once it goes beyond 3 bar in pressure. The expansion vessel’s internal bladder, which is normally made from neoprene rubber (Neoprene rubber resists degradation more than natural or synthetic rubber), must be inflated by air or ideally nitrogen ( when the gas side is filled with nitrogen, and not with air, corrosion is prevented and the pressure loss is even more limited). This level of nitrogen or air, commonly known as it’s charge must be maintained through annual servicing of the boiler or eventually it will dissipate completely, eventually causing the boiler to have continual low-pressure problems and ultimately failure of the central heating system.

If that doesn’t seem to be the problem, then the next thing to do is find the Schrader valve on the expansion vessel, which looks like an air valve found on a car or bike tyre. Then depress the valve in the centre using a screwdriver or similar. If water comes out of the valve it means that the diaphragm has failed inside the expansion vessel, and you will need to replace the vessel or with some units you can just replace the internal neoprene bladder.

If air comes out of the Schrader valve you need to check the pressure of the charge in the vessel. To do this you will need a suitable measuring device, such as a car tyre pressure checker. The air or nitrogen pressure for an internal boiler expansion vessel should be around 0.8 bar ( but please consult your boiler’s operating manual and check exactly what pressure the vessel should be charged to) but this could be higher for externally mounted expansion vessels. To fix this call your local heating engineer and ask him to re-inflate the expansion vessel. This is done by draining off all the heating system pressure first, then then using a pump (like a bicycle type or similar) the expansion vessel is re-inflated.

So what if the boiler pressure keeps dropping after doing this ?

So after your expansion vessel has been re-inflated keep an eye on the boilers pressure gauge, to see that it’s still correctly holding the system pressure for the next couple of weeks, as sometimes the internal bladder that holds the air or nitrogen has a pinhole puncture and it leaks out over days or even weeks , which isn’t always obvious, until you see your boiler pressure dropping.

Pressurizing your expansion vessel should typically be done as part of an annual boiler service, by a qualified plumber / heating engineer. We highly recommend that any work that is required to be done, is not done by a yourself or a novice, as we are dealing with hot water and pressure here, and these two items can cause physical damage to people or the property

Boilers with low water pressure – other things to consider

One thing that people often overlook is that if your boiler has been under pressured for a long period and you’ve been constantly topping the heating system up via a filling loop, then it would have depleted the central heating inhibitor chemicals within the heating system, it is therefore very important to add more inhibitor to the heating system , otherwise your heating system will start to corrode which can lead to a failure of your boiler, in a relatively short period.

Refilling your low pressure boiler heating system

After diagnosing your problem, and getting it fixed, the final step in getting you low pressure boiler back up to the desired pressure is refilling the heating system with what is called a filling loop . On some boilers the filling loop is internal to the boiler but in most systems the filling loop is an external piece of kit, and should be what is termed as a part “L” of the building regulation compliant and looks like this –

You should only refill your central heating system when the system has cooled down. You simply open the valves up, slowly and wait for the pressure gauge on the boiler to rise to 1.2 Bar to 1.5 Bar maximum (please consult you boiler manual for the recommended pressure that they stipulate).The process is then finished off by closing the valves , thus sealing the heating system from the mains water

Hopefully this guide “boiler pressure keeps dropping” has been helpful, and shown you some of most common reasons why this happens and how to remedy it.

With the rising costs of gas and oil, we are more and more looking for ways to cut back on heating bills without sacrificing comfort. German electric heaters are a reliable way to heat the areas of a house, apartment or business unit you use the most, without wasting energy trying to heat your entire building. When looking for the right model, consider the advantages an electric heater can provide.

Our range of German Electric Heaters are well engineered being built in the southern area of Germany, which is synonymous with manufacturing excellence. The units are built to an extremely high standard and are some of the most energy efficient and safest models on the market. If you really think you can benefit from an electric heater in your home, garage, or the office this is the type you should get.

As the saying goes,  “you to get what you pay for”. That is why, we strongly recommend paying that little bit extra for a German made heater to give you peace of mind with its high standard of construction.

Our German factory offer a nice range of electric heaters, from a 3kW model up to and 18kW model. The 18kW model has a version that has high temperature capabilities, allowing it to thermostatically controlled up to 70°C. This German made electric heater unit is perfect choice for use in the heat treatment, pest control industry.

We have found that our 3kW German made unit, after prolonged continuous use, can actually pull 13.1A. We have two options for this. The first being we can supply a dedicated Euro to UK plug adapter, which prevents this or alternatively you can purchase our UK built FF3 unit, which we do not have this problem with. This would be supplied with a standard UK plug.

Why choose to go down the electric heating route

There are several options for heating a room. However, not all options are a practical for some properties. In addition, not all locations have the same energy sources, so that a choice must always be made. For example, for a property without access to mains gas, one can opt for an oil heating system. What if this property is too remote for regular deliveries? Then a great choice or the perfect balance is to opt for electric heating.

We are not talking about electric radiators here, which are wall mounted, supplying radiant heat and an element of convection heat, and tend to be storage heaters that use an electric heating element to create heat retention by warming up bricks or other thermal materials to store the heat until required.

Our German electric manufactured warm air heaters warm the cold air directly, unlike storage heaters, which use heat retention and require a charge up period, which means you’re always trying to predict tomorrow’s weather. With our units, if it’s cold, you put them on and they heat the surrounding air; if it’s not, you don’t—it’s as simple as that. You only use energy when it is needed! unlike storage heaters ( electric radiators) which use a heat retention system – that stored heat is often not required and thus wasted – that’s why we don’t consider these efficient electric radiators.

Below are just some of the benefits of using one of our German electric heaters; –

Clean and green – an electric heater, unlike oil or gas gives off no emissions.   They are 100% energy efficient; converting every bit of the input energy to heat. They also reduce environmental impact compared to other fuel types:

No installation costs – these Electric Heaters do not require any installation. You only have to plug the plug into the socket and the device is immediately ready for use – a  DIY installation as such, unlike wall mounted units.

High efficiency –  an electric heating system is very efficient, because the electricity used is directly converted into heat – there is no wasted energy as they are 100% efficient, which is good for lowering your energy bills.

Additional heating – electric heaters are ideal when the existing heating system is not sufficient or more heat is required in the short term. Moreover, they are the perfect solution in the transitional period, i.e. in spring and autumn, when the temperatures are not so low that the central heating must be switched on

Safe to Use -Electric heaters are distinguished by different safety features such as overheating protection, with a thermostat to ensure full control of the temperature and come with a powder coated covering.

Portability – electric heaters are extremely versatile and more practical in different situations than other heaters. Therefore, they are often preferred by electric heating company or installers.

Quiet and discreet – with the exception of the fan, electric heaters have a very low noise level, therefore making them ideal for smaller rooms heating solutions.

Zonal Heating – because of their mobility, an electric heater is perfect for specific areas that require temporary or permanent heat for commercial properties.

Make life easy for yourself, with our German manufactured electric heaters, in most instances all you need is a power socket. However, for larger areas three phase models are also available giving large volumes of heat. There are no exhaust gases or smells – just large volumes of safe, fume-free heat. Electric heaters are ideal for virtually any location including

• Offices
• Shops and showrooms
• Hotels
• Garages
• Industrial units
• Classrooms
• Clinics
• Building sites
• Marquees and tents
• Storerooms
• Workshops
• Ships
• Switching stations
• Temporary accommodation
• Modular buildings

The amount of space an electric heater can take care of for you will vary. Make sure you read do plenty of research before you buy one. Generally, this information will be displayed in square metres. You can easily calculate the square metres of a surface area by multiplying the length of it times the width, but this is the incorrect method , as you heat a cubic volume , thus you need the ceiling height to get the overall cubic volume to calculate the heat loss of the area – call us with this information- and we’ll run it through our heating calculator size programme to ensure the correct size German electric unit for both you or your happy customers.

You will find that many of our models of electric heaters also are very nice looking. They aren’t going to stand out like a sore thumb. Many of them are very small in size but you will be surprised at how much heat they are able to emit for you. They also take very little time to heat up so you won’t be waiting in the cold for that warmth to start circulating in the room.

Our range of German manufactured electric heaters can definitely offer you the additional warmth that you desire. With their in-built thermostat and two heat settings they will certainly save you energy as well with this high quality German engineering technology unit.

Should you require anymore assistance, information or a price on our range of  German Electric Heaters , please don’t hesitate to call us on 01202 822221 or click here for our email contact form.

Blow Heaters

Blow heaters are fundamentally any type of heater that is assisted via a fan – thus sometimes referred to as a fan heaters.  As the term suggests, heat is expelled at a higher rate resulting in faster movement of warm air thus ensuring a more efficient and accurate heat delivery.  There are a range of blow heaters on the market. The most common of these is Electric Fan Heaters  which function by heating a coil or a heating conduct or even ceramic heaters. The cold air is led along this heating coil and heated. A fan is then used to transport or circulate the heated air into the entire room.

Electric fan heaters are usually compact and space-saving, which means they can be used almost everywhere and are super-flexible as far as the location is concerned. Only a power connection and a little space is all that’s required.  They are used for heating rooms such as garages, greenhouses, tents and the like. They are often used as additional heating in the home or living area, because of their fast and effective way of heating the entire room.

Thermostatic control is an important element for controlling any fan heater, to ensure the heat is controlled to the required warmth level, and that the unit doesn’t over heats.

A fan heater is suitable to heat locations such as stock rooms in a shop to protect products from damp or freezing, or even heating the shop area to keep the customers warm. A fan heater can also be used as a garage heater warming the location to the desired level.

Common applications for fan heaters

Building industry • Heating and drying out rooms, often in conjunction with a dehumidifier.
Industry • Heating of offices, canteens, stores, warehouses etc.
Livestock • Heating poultry houses.
Horticulture • Heating of sorting areas and greenhouses.
Agriculture • Heating of livestock areas, dairy parlours, workshops and packing sheds.

For more information on our range of electric fan heaters, please click here

Other popular types of fan heater are ones fuelled by gas, usually propane or liquefied petroleum gas or LPG, for short. Most gas fan heaters use a so-called piezoelectric igniter. A material, often crystal quartz, which has the property of developing an electrical potential when pressure is applied is housed in a mechanism that allows a spring strike hammer. This action generates a spark, igniting the gas within the fan heater.

Common applications of a gas fan heater

Livestock •

Heating of pig and poultry houses and sheds

Agriculture •

Drying of agricultural products.

Horticulture •

Heating of greenhouses and polytunnels (N.B. Control CO2 and CO emission)

Control

Temperature control is a desirable feature in a gas blow heater. An automatic thermostat is a popular way to achieve this and some of the more sophisticated fan heater are fitted with a thermostat while others simply have a manual high and low flame control.

Safety

The main drawback of burning propane or other combustible materials, for that matter, in a small and enclosed space is the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is a product of irregular combustion. It is odourless and it competes with oxygen in the blood, which deprives the brain and other parts of the body of oxygen. Some propane heaters are approved for indoor use and some are not.

For more information on our range of gas fan heaters, please click here

The advantages of fan heaters

• Fan heaters heat the room quickly and effectively to the desired temperature.

• No additional work is required to operate a blow heater. Only one socket and some space should be available.

• The purchase costs of fan heaters are manageable.

• Most models are equipped with practical carrying handles or tramples, so even if the case is still warm, they can easily be moved locally.

• The most compact design of the devices allows them to be used in a very small space.

• Due to the existing “cold stage”, the units can be used as a fan in summer.

• Integrated or external time switches allow time-controlled use.

• Many appliances can be used as frost monitors without an external thermostatic control unit.

Should you require more price information or require anymore assistance or information on our range of Blow Heaters , please don’t hesitate to contact our sales team on 01202 822221 or click here for our email contact form. We always supply an inc vat invoice for all products, with inc vat at the appropriate current rate and no exclusions apply.